Your Guide to the Savannah Way: Part 3

Queensland, you were gracious hosts, but it’s time to move on to a part of the country that may just steal the spotlight. The Northern Territory is famously remote, yet it’s also a hub for spectacular landscapes, extraordinary experiences, and cultural heritage found nowhere else in the world. Let’s guide you through the Top End as you follow the Savannah Way.

Crossing the Border: Hell’s Gate to Borroloola

The final Queensland stop is fittingly named Hell’s Gate Roadhouse. After three hours of travel through the last stretch of Queensland savannah, this is the perfect spot for a hot meal or even an overnight rest. Approach with caution — road trains frequent this road and pull-offs are limited, so a quick call on UHF Channel 40 can help everyone stay safe. The roadhouse is also the last servo before 320 km of westward travel, so top up before moving on.

Once through Hell’s Gate, you’re in the Northern Territory! The first town is Borroloola, the Gulf region’s capital and a barra fishing hotspot. Depending on conditions, you may need to bush camp along the way, but once in town, the McArthur River Caravan Park offers powered sites and all the basics.

Keen anglers might head 50 km north to King Ash Bay, home to the King Ash Bay Fishing Club. With powered and unpowered sites (though some flood-prone in the Wet), plus a bar and grill, this is a classic grey nomad hangout where you can cast a line by day and share stories by night.

tree in a colourful canyon

Lost Cities, Hot Springs and Daly Waters

It’s over 400 km before the legendary Daly Waters Pub, so plan a few stops along the way.

First up is Caranbirini Conservation Reserve, just 35 minutes from Borroloola. Here, towering sandstone pillars form a natural “Lost City,” while a nearby waterhole attracts birdlife. The Carpentaria Highway runs close by, with a short 2WD gravel spur into the car park.

To limit long days behind the wheel, consider the Heartbreak Hotel at Cape Crawford — a quirky roadhouse with caravan sites, laundry, and meals. It’s well worth booking ahead in peak season.

From there, push on west across vast, open country to Daly Waters Pub. Since the 1930s, it’s been a beacon for thirsty travellers, its walls covered in hats, banknotes, bras, and mementos left by visitors from all over the world. It’s an icon of outback hospitality, and easy to spend a night enjoying the atmosphere.

Stay options:

• Daly Waters Pub Campground — powered and unpowered sites right behind the pub.
• Hi-Way Inn (a few km up the road) — similar setup with powered sites and meals if the pub is full.

From Daly Waters, it’s a short two-hour hop north to Mataranka, home of the famous thermal pools. Fed by the Roper River, the crystal-clear, 34°C waters wind through palms and pandanus, providing a natural spa to soothe road-weary muscles.

a waterfall in the outback

Stay options in Mataranka:

• Mataranka Homestead Tourist Resort — right next to the pool, with powered sites, bar, and entertainment.
• Territory Manor Motel & Caravan Park — shady sites and a pool, with its own spring.
• Bitter Springs Cabins & Camping — quieter and close to the picturesque Bitter Springs.

Another short drive (just over an hour) brings you to Katherine.

Katherine: Gateway to the Top End

Katherine is the kind of place where you’ll want to slow down and settle in for a few days. Not only does it offer all the essentials for RV travellers — supermarkets, mechanics, fuel, and medical services — but it also has a relaxed country-town atmosphere that makes it easy to call home for a while. With the Katherine River winding its way through town and world-famous gorges just up the road, this is where the Savannah Way really starts to show off.

The biggest drawcard is Nitmiluk National Park, better known as Katherine Gorge. Just half an hour from town, the gorge is made up of thirteen sandstone chasms carved by the river over millions of years. You can take a guided cruise for a leisurely way to see it, or hire a canoe and paddle beneath the sheer cliffs at your own pace. Those who prefer to keep their feet on the ground will find a network of walking trails, ranging from short strolls to multi-day hikes. At sunset, the cliffs turn brilliant shades of orange and red, a sight that lingers long after you’ve left.

Right in town, the Katherine Hot Springs are another must-do. Free to enter and set among shady paperbark trees, the springs are naturally heated to a pleasant 25–30°C. They’re the perfect way to soak away the dust of the road, and because they’re located in a park with easy access, you can visit more than once during your stay.

For something a little different, the Top Didj Cultural Experience is a chance to connect with the region’s Aboriginal heritage. Local artists share stories of their culture, demonstrate traditional fire-lighting, and guide you through spear-throwing practice. It’s hands-on, memorable, and gives you a deeper appreciation of the land you’re travelling through.

Stay options in Katherine:

• Shady Lane Tourist Park — leafy riverside sites with lots of space.
• Riverview Tourist Village — walking distance to the hot springs.
• Knotts Crossing Resort Caravan Park — handy for Nitmiluk access.

Kakadu: Cultures and Crocodiles

No journey along the Savannah Way would be complete without a detour into Kakadu National Park, the Northern Territory’s crown jewel and one of Australia’s most treasured World Heritage sites. Covering nearly 20,000 square kilometres (half the size of Switzerland!), Kakadu is a living cultural landscape, jointly managed by its Traditional Owners and Parks Australia. It’s vast, spectacular, and surprisingly accessible to 2WD RVs thanks to a network of sealed highways.

Travelling from Katherine, you’ll follow the Stuart Highway north to Pine Creek before turning east onto the Kakadu Highway. The drive is straightforward, and in just a few hours you’ll find yourself surrounded by floodplains, escarpments, and wetlands alive with birds. Time it right and you can roll into Jabiru or Cooinda in time to watch the sunset blaze across Yellow Water Billabong.

Kakadu is best explored over at least three or four days, giving you time to experience its mix of wildlife, landscapes, and culture. The Yellow Water Billabong Cruise is an essential first stop, where you’ll likely spot saltwater crocodiles sunning themselves on the banks alongside magpie geese, jabirus, and countless other birds. Nearby, the Bowali Visitor Centre in Jabiru is the perfect place to orient yourself, with cultural displays, ranger information, and tour bookings.

For a deep connection to Aboriginal culture, head to the famous rock art galleries at Ubirr and Burrungkuy (Nourlangie). These are among the most significant collections of rock paintings in the world, some dating back more than 20,000 years. They don’t just showcase ancient stories, with many pieces still being interpreted today.

Nature lovers will find no shortage of highlights. Jim Jim and Twin Falls are the park’s most iconic waterfalls, plunging into crystal-clear plunge pools framed by towering cliffs. These are accessible only by 4WD, but tours run from Jabiru and Cooinda for those travelling in 2WD RVs. The park is also famous for its birdlife, with over 280 species recorded, making it one of the best places in Australia for birdwatching. And don’t forget: Kakadu has the highest density of saltwater crocodiles on Earth, something to remember whenever you’re near the water.

Adding to the uniqueness of Kakadu are its six distinct seasons, defined by the Bininj/Mungguy people rather than the standard four. From the monsoonal rains of Gudjewg to the cool dry breezes of Wurrkeng, each season brings its own character to the landscape. Visit in the Dry and you’ll see waterfalls at their most accessible, while the early Wet brings dramatic storms and swelling rivers.

Stay options in Kakadu:

• Cooinda Lodge & Caravan Park — central, full facilities, and tours right on your doorstep.
• Aurora Kakadu Lodge & Caravan Park (Jabiru) — shady powered sites and a pool.
• National Park Campgrounds like Muirella Park and Mardugal — unpowered bush camps with basic facilities.

Kakadu is a place that defies quick visits. It’s not just a national park, it’s a living, breathing cultural landscape that rewards those who take the time to slow down, listen, and look closely. For grey nomads, it’s the perfect destination to park up the RV, settle in for a few days, and let the magic of the Top End work its way into your soul.

a stony river running through a forest

The Kimberley Approach

From Kakadu, it’s time to continue west along sealed highways towards the Kimberley. You’ll retrace your way to Katherine, then follow the Victoria Highway. Though sealed and scenic, it’s still remote: plan shorter daily drives, fuel up whenever possible, and carry water. Watch for road trains and wildlife along the way.

Your first stop heading west is Timber Creek, about five hours from Kakadu via Katherine.

Stay options in Timber Creek:

• Gunamu Tourist Park — powered sites, shady grounds, and big-rig friendly.
• Travellers Rest — another reliable RV stop with all the basics.

The Victoria River escarpments and riverside walks are worth exploring here — check with rangers for current access.

From Timber Creek, the road soon carries you across the WA border and into the Kimberley, but that’s a story for the next chapter of your Big Lap. After all, who doesn’t love a good cliffhanger?